Goodbye Ireland, hello Croatia!
So, we flew into Zadar airport (which is seriously tiny, and quite cute, by the way) and set off on our first adventure: Finding our accommodation for the night in Zadar town & checking in. I’d like to point out now, that sometimes our map software really sucks (even though we have 3 apps for this). Seems like more and more of a common occurrence to find that the gps has snapped us to the wrong road, or is trying to take us to somewhere other than the requested destination. Or routing and rerouting again (and again) like a dog chasing its tail. (When we haven’t actually deviated off the directed path at any point.) But I’d still rather have it, as no map is definitely worse. At any rate, we got to our accommodation eventually. Some thanks to the map software, and no thanks to the local tourism desk. (Turns out the accommodation was like, almost directly across the street from the tourism office.) Checked in. Our studio apartment was nothing special, but it was comfortable enough & bizarrely, right across the road from some sort of tiny carnival (complete with chair swing and dodgem cars).
Next stop: Dropping our baggage at the marina near Split, as we can’t take all our gear on the sailing trip planned for later in the week. So, time for an hour or so road trip driving down the coast via the motorway, with the windows down and ACDC on the radio (everywhere seems to love a bit of ACDC). Quite a nice drive, and I can’t say enough how nice it is to drive with the windows down after a month of it being too cold or wet to do so. It’s hot. And dry. The ground and the grasses look toasted and baked to a crisp. Very much a contrast to lush, green Ireland. Fig trees everywhere. The ground looks rocky (understatement). Kind of looks like a greener version of Nevada.
Made it to the marina in Trogir just before closing time (4pm), which given the time constraints, was really quite lucky (only had just enough time to drop off some gear in Zadar and then head to the marina). However, we did stop on the way to squeeze in getting new SIM cards from a local newsstand and get some data for our trip. Very good value, too. Seems Australia is totally overcharging on the data front. Jerks. Same with France. Double jerks. And I’m ridiculously impressed with the ease of setting up the service with the new SIM cards. Go Croatia! They really have this situation under control (you can print off instructions in Croatian to help the staff get what you want). The lady at the newsstand even asked us if we needed any help setting up the SIMs. Aww.
So, having succeeded in getting our excess stuff to the marina left luggage holding area, time to return to Zadar. (We chose to stay in Zadar so that the drive out to Plitvice Lakes National Park might be slightly less onerous). This time, we drove via the coast road. On our way back from Trogir we passed many beautiful towns with their red tiled roofs and lovely coastline. Seems like there is a monopoly on the tiles used, as everywhere is exactly the same. The coast is all ridiculously picturesque. Everywhere we pass makes me want to stop and get out for a swim. Crystal clear, blue water on one side; fig trees, olive groves and vineyards on the other. Also passed a tortoise casually taking a stroll on the sidewalk. Fair enough.
Random side note: One thing I have noticed: there appear to be a disturbingly high number of unfinished buildings. Like, everywhere. Completed houses here all seem to be rendered, but, it seems like during the build, many people elect to move in somewhere around the 75% done mark and leave it at that. As a result, much of the housing has a peculiarly half-assed look about it. Exposed red bricks or concreted walls, half finished balconies etc. It’s very strange.
For our first night in Croatia, we went into the Old City in Zadar for a walk and some dinner. There doesn’t seem to be whole lot happening in Zadar, tourism-wise. Of course, there is the Old City, and you can explore the cobbled streets and markets or enjoy a drink and something to eat at the many cafes and seaside restaurants. The main things to see are the Sea Organ installed on the steps leading into the water, and Greeting to the Sun, both of which are art installations by the same architect. The Sea Organ was pretty cool. Sounds like pipes or wind chimes playing whenever the swell pushes water through the organ, forcing air out through a variety of openings in the steps. The random tunes it produces is quite haunting.
Our host recommended a place to eat in the Old City, and so we ate our first grilled fish plate here. It was great. I think it may have begun my love affair with seafood prepared simply with no embellishment (other than a lug of olive oil). Can’t say just how impressed I am with a dish that required so little preparation. Healthy, delicious, and surprisingly inexpensive. Going to have to give this a crack myself.
Our first night: We fell asleep to the comforting (?) tunes of some sort of techno playing at the completely empty carnival.
Plitvice Lakes:
Plitvice Lakes NP.
I was of the opinion that if we were visiting Croatia, there was no way in heck we were going to miss out of on visiting Plitvice Lakes. Having never, ever, thought about going to Croatia until sometime late last year, I was totally ignorant about the beautiful scenery there is to enjoy in their national parks and on their coastlines. After doing a google image search for places to visit in Croatia and finding Plitvice lakes, it was a no brainer that we would have to go there.
So what was it actually like? I was not disappointed. In fact, very much the opposite. We turned up shortly after the gates opened (7.15am arrival, I believe), in an effort to beat the hordes of tourists that we were promised would descend upon the lakes like a bunch of locusts. I have a suspicion that we were the second vehicle to arrive. Keen much? The entry cost us about $25 AUD each, which, having never paid to go to a national park before seemed a bit rich (other than paying for parking – which we also had the pleasure of doing at the lakes). However, I’d say it was money well spent.
We spent the day hiking around the lakes and wandering around the boardwalk paths which criss cross the lake systems. And, because we were there so early, most of the time we were there all by ourselves. I think we got to see almost all of the upper lakes system before the first bus load of tourists arrived. Thank goodness, because after the buses started dropping their human cargo things got busy in a hurry. We also chose to go walking around the outskirts of the lake (which was more or less just a scenic hike), but it was a much better option than trying to deal with the masses catching the electric boats across the lake. Ended up having to eventually deal with the crowds at the lower lakes, and this, as expected, was pretty painful. But I’m sure it was much better than it could have been, still being early in the season. The scenery was magical, and the water was an amazing shade of blue that demanded swimming in. Unfortunately, this was not allowed. All in all, we ended up having a pretty fabulous day. Hiked for about 5 hours or so, and saw a whole lot of amazing scenery (and a dead mouse, and a legless lizard/possibly a snake). The best part was the boardwalks – half the time the waterfalls are cascading around you (and under you), spraying mist into the air, while bright blue dragonflies cruise around in hot pursuit of each other. Fish, everywhere. And they don’t give two hoots that you are there. Quite the experience. I’d certainly recommend it to anyone thinking about visiting Croatia.
Move over path, water coming through.
Lower lakes. Awesome, but very different to the upper lakes.
Pretty lakes..smooth and still and utterly clear.
One of many, many falls. Water spills over everything.
Perfect. And perfectly empty. Huzzah for arriving early.
Doesn’t look like a lake, does it?
Food in Croatia:
Am loving the grilled fish here. We ordered a share platter of seafood on our first night, and it came with grilled scampi, squid, monkfish, tuna, mussels and two whole grilled fish of surpassing deliciousness. We picked those babies clean. Everything was delicious, but the grilled whole fish was really quite exceptional. Why I normally avoid (cooked) fish I’m not really sure, I think I have some sort of subconscious idea that I don’t like it. Seems my subconscious is wrong. Bring it, grilled fish!
Mmmm. Grilled seafoody goodness at Riva bar cafe in Trogir. However, they didn’t clean their squid. Grrr. Lazy kitchen staff.
Ellie: We bought a packet of things that looked like Cheetos, and were made of some sort of corn meal. They tasted (and smelled) exactly like those packing peanuts (yes, I know they aren’t food grade) that our stock arrives in at work! Needless to say, we relegated that particular pack of snacks to the bin. Not a flavour sensation.
Everything snack-wise seems to be paprika flavour. Don’t get me wrong, I like paprika. But I don’t really want 9/10 products to be paprika flavour. Seems like your options are paprika or cheese (the 1/10). Unless you buy the bruschetta. Those are great.
Visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina:
As we were headed to Dubrovnik to where the sailing trip was due to depart, we elected to go via Bosnia and Herzegovina. Why not, really. As it is, you have to cross through B&H to get to Dubrovnik anyway as Croatia has an odd border situation going on in the southern coastal part of the country. So we drove through B&H from Plitvice and made our way to Mostar, crossing some seriously beautiful (but also sometimes dismal) countryside. B&H. Terrible abbreviation. Sounds like a sauce. But apparently it’s not ok to just say “Bosnia”.
We passed many towns devoid of people, having been abandoned during conflicts now long passed. It was strange to see so many buildings abandoned, decrepit and riddled with bullet holes. Even after all this time, people have not returned. Understandable, I guess, as there is a good possibility that there may also be land mines. Something like 120,000+ mines and unexploded munitions still around, and people still die regularly. Seriously unfortunate situation. There are skull-and-crossbone signs everywhere warning about mines nailed to trees on the roadsides.
Stopped in at one of the national parks on the way, and was very happy we did. They had the best picnic seating I have ever seen, and out in the middle of nowhere. Must be a popular destination at the right time of year. We had it all to ourselves.
Picnic pavilions. Location: middle of nowhere.
Waterfalls at the NP.
Our maps app reckons you can drive on this.
Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina:
View from Restaurant Babilon. The Old Bridge is on the right.
We stayed in Mostar overnight, and hung out in the Old City. The bridge they tout as their major attraction was interesting to see (although it has been rebuilt), and was exceedingly slippery and steep to walk on. The whole Old City was a bit of a liability. All the polished cobbles were super slick and quite the mission to remain upright on. Murray even took his footwear off. However, the streets were beautiful and we had a great time there (even if I did almost fall over more times than I could count).
View from the bridge.
There was one intrepid youth jumping off the bridge during our time enjoying the scenery (from the comfort of a local cafe on the river). Utterly insane. The bridge is high enough above the water that falling into the water incorrectly would undoubtedly rearrange some of your appendages. But he did it repeatedly, with no ill effect. I read somewhere that you can get a local to teach you how, although I am certain that this would not be covered by travel insurance. Makes my teeth hurt just thinking about it.
Not the actual bridge. Another one over the canal. The actual bridge had a healthy coating of tourists and as such was less photogenic.
Ate more grilled fish here, as we are not anywhere near getting sick of it yet. Also hung out at a discotheque…in a cave. Pretty awesome, even if we were the only ones there. However, they only sold horrible beer. Didn’t stay long. Would have been great if it was a busy night. Migrated to the Black Dog Pub instead, and enjoyed (?) the effluent-scented breeze by the canal along with some not-quite-local beer. All the local draught beer was out of stock, which was disappointing, as this was why we were visiting this bar in the first place. Asked the barman for something like a local schnapps instead (since apparently plum brandy and other liqueurs are a common home-made specialty) to try, and what we got was closer to some sort of fragrant jet fuel. Horrid stuff. And definitely home made. Came out of a PET bottle. Not to be repeated. Not sure if I want to know what it was made out of, but I suspect it was a local grappa variant. Urk.
Grilled fish plate, Bosnian version. This one comes with veggies and potato cakes.
The offending shot.
…Cheers?
Dubrovnik, Croatia:
It’s a nice city, I have to admit.
Took us what seemed like forever, but we made it back to Croatia. No thanks to our mapping apps. They kept trying to take us down roads only suitable for off-road vehicles (or over bridges only intended for foot traffic). Apple maps was even worse and conveniently left out the majority of the roads in B&H, making it utterly useless. However, we eventually drove in to Dubrovnik and met up with Nath & Rach again. This time for the sailing trip planned from Dubrovnik to Split. Here we spent two days exploring the Old City and generally getting more than our fair share of exercise via stairs during our wandering around town. (Plus our accommodation was at the top of the hill. Fail. Taxi time.) Game of Thrones is filmed here (and other places, but the scenery here you’re likely to recognise), and we walked along the walls of the Old City (aka Kings Landing). It was quite warm (read: very hot). Hot enough to not be deterred by an overpriced beverage while on the wall. However, the walk was totally worth it, and we saw the city in a way that we wouldn’t have otherwise been able to.
We also caught the cable car up to the top of the nearby mountain for a better view. However, they may have had a bit of an engineering fail with the cable car design, since it seems it is more or less impossible to take photos of the city or the Elaphites islands without also taking a picture of the cable car and cables. Disappointing. Nevertheless, it was a nice trip and we had dinner at the restaurant there. Delicious. So far, having far more success with eating out than in Belgium.
Spent one of our days exploring Lokrum island, just off the coast of Dubrovnik. Had a great swim there and once again, delicious food. Loving grilled fish and squid. Loved that little island. Great island vibe, and great little cafes to hang out in.
Lokrum island. With Nath hiding behind his towel.
View from the city walls.
The walled city from the fort. Or Kings Landing, if you will.
The Old City and Lokrum island.
Having a swim off the rocks at Lokrum.
Plenty of nice spots for swimming in these parts.
Next stop:
Sailing our way back to Split.
