On living in the middle of nowhere:
When I asked a local how the postie manages his job, given that most of the roads feature the “unnamed road” situation, I was duly informed that the postie knows everyone in town (and where they live). And if someone is new, the neighbours won’t waste any time letting other locals know about the newcomers. I guess that is small town living for you… Everybody knows everybody. In these days of relative anonymity, I think it’s a bit of a scary prospect.
I’m not sure if I could do the small town thing. Or at least, not a town this small. Think it would drive me nuts. Could explain the ridiculous number of pubs in the town. Not much else to do. Rains most of the time, cold most of the time. I expect everyone gets more than their fair share of quality “indoor time”. Seems like almost every day features a spot of rain. Or much more than a spot of rain. Has to be irritating when trying to organise outdoor activities. There are campgrounds aplenty, but I can’t imagine pitching a tent with these conditions.
Love the cliffs and skies here.
Enjoying the view.
Love the goat paths.
More stuff we have been up to:
- Killarney National Park:
Drove through here on the way back from a drive up the coast. Amazing. Definitely wanted to spend more time here. Beautiful lakes and stunning views. Unfortunately, the day we allocated turned out to be a bust. At home, it was mostly overcast and a little wet. Not great, but doable (ie. Ireland’s version of normal). The weather at the park, however, was a mishmash of wet, windy and freezing. When we got there, the wind off the lake was utterly ridiculous. Decided that we couldn’t hack it. Especially since we had planned to hike for the whole day.
View of the Killarney National Park (on a less feral day)
Since the weather was feral, we decided to go for a drive instead (still not ideal, since the fog was in). We wanted to drive the Gap of Dunloe, but when we got there there was definite signage indicating that the pass was not intended for driving by any vehicles aside from local traffic and horse & cart. So, we wussed out and checked out the Dingle peninsula instead. Poxy weather or no, the drive was still worthwhile, and when we returned, we had another go at the Gap of Dunloe (after reading various reports that the road was in fact ok for tourists to drive). It was amazing.
- Gap of Dunloe:
Great drive. Fabulous scenery. However, the road was very narrow, with few points available to pass cars (and only single lane road). It would have been too hair-raising for me to drive it, but Murray is much more of a confident driver by comparison. He managed fine. If we had more time, it would have been great to do a pony & trap ride and enjoy the scenery at a more sedate pace. We even drove further than the Gap and was rewarded with even more great scenery (and a very friendly, crotch-butting sheep). Definitely would recommend visiting, although not necessarily driving.
Gap of Dunloe
At the Gap
Hi Sheep! Please stay off the road…
Nature in Ireland:
Despite a keen desire to spot some more of the local wildlife, Ireland hasn’t been keen to give up the goods. We have seen several red foxes, on their afternoon foray for a late lunch (or is it early dinner?), one deer, and other than that, no evidence of animals (outside of the flattened roadside variety). It seems thus far that the roadkill variety is the main form of discovering the local wildlife, which although disappointing, is still interesting nonetheless.
The wildflowers have been spectacular, and it has been interesting to watch the progression of various blooms coming into flower. Last week it was gorse, rhododendrons and daisies, here, there and everywhere. This week it is buttercups brightening the fields and fuchsia adorning the hedgerows. Next week will likely be the rise of the foxgloves and wild rose, but I think we are going to miss it.
Buttercups!
The landscape is largely bare of forest, with plenty of windswept gorse, heather and rhododendron. Pine forest is a frequent sight, but it all appears to be planted forests for logging. Apparently Ireland used to be heavily forested. Not so much anymore. Bit sad, but still beautiful in a sometimes bleak, rugged, and stony kind of way.
Weekend with Nath & Rach:
We had the pleasure of having guests for a few days! Nath & Rach visited us from London for a long weekend.
Saturday:
Murray and Nathan did the Ring of Beara ride, following one of the picturesque fingers of land on the West Cork coastline. Rach and I also did some of the Ring of Beara, but from the far more convenient and comfortable confines of the car. Quite beautiful, and seeing it for a second time was almost as exciting as the first. We also picked up a hitch hiker. One of the elderly locals, actually. Doesn’t own a car, or a phone. Somehow manages living way out of town anyway. Relies on the kindness of strangers from his reports. Apparently much easier in peak season since there is more car traffic. Goodness he talked a lot. In a thick (almost incomprehensible) brogue. At least he turned out to be harmless (if ridiculously chatty).
Rach and I also visited the Skibbereen markets, which, although touted as one of the biggest markets in the area was quite a bit smaller than I had imagined. I’d say they might be pushing it to estimate the number of stalls as more than 30. Having said that, one week Murray and I went to Schull to visit their market, only to find less than 10 stalls there. So I guess the Skibbereen market is indeed quite a bit bigger. Just not of the size I’ve come to expect. Plenty of fresh local produce though, so a great opportunity to try some local eggs, cheese, meat and preserves.
We also visited the Bantry House and Gardens, for a spot of lunch and a bit of a walk in their manicured gardens. Very pretty, but Rach informs me it has nothing on the gardens that we will see when we visit them in London. Will have to wait and see!
Bantry Gardens. Wisteria++
Bantry House and Gardens
Sunday:
We drove the next finger of coastline, the Ring of Kerry. Also beautiful, and different from the Ring of Beara. Every time we visit the coastline it seems it has something different in store for us.
Mapping a Strava segment on the top of a hill fort.
Comparing notes on Strava. From the top of the fort. As you do.
Somewhere on the Ring of Kerry
Monday:
Another scenic drive. Since that is more or less what you get up to in these parts. This time we did the Goat’s Path drive out to Sheep’s Head and hiked out to the lighthouse located there. Had a great, if ridiculously windy, time walking out to the lighthouse, and the views of the cliffs and coast was definitely worth the effort. Don’t think I have ever experienced wind like that before. Hope I never do again. Nearly ate it walking up a hill when the wind dropped (for all of maybe one second). I am definitely not used to having to battle the wind for the opportunity to remain upright.
Out at Sheep’s Head
Cliffs at Sheep’s Head
Had a toasted sandwich and a Guinness for lunch at a tiny pub on the way home. Seems to be a ubiquitous and economic option for lunch in Ireland: toasted sambo with a small side of potato chips. While we were there discussing beer with the publican, she explained to us that Guinness has too many chemicals, and if someone was not doing well in the health department, that their doctor would recommend that they switch beers to Beamish instead. So… Perhaps the advertising that “Guinness is Good For You” might be a slight exaggeration (or complete fallacy). Although, being told to switch beers (not stop/reduce the beers?) seems to be quite the novel option from a health point of view. I guess perhaps the doctors know not to push the subject into dangerous territory.
Dublin Bound:
We headed back to Dublin via the western coastline mostly via Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. This has been a great way to see the coast, and by far the best parts have been close to our home base – the Ring of Beara and the Ring of Kerry being the standouts.
Cliffs of Moher. Wind level: ridiculous for those on two legs.
Having lunch at a lake near Galway. Damn cold thanks to some serious wind conditions.
Things have been interesting, but following the coastline up south-north probably wasn’t the best way to do it. Mostly because it seems like the northern end is a bit of a let down after all the beautiful scenery we have already seen and become accustomed to. The varied landscapes and ubiquitous sheep have been a pleasure, even when the sheep monopolize the road you are trying to traverse. I’ve had to get out of the car on a few occasions to encourage said wooly wonders to crop grass elsewhere. Generally they are pretty timid, although one was determined to headbutt me in the crotch in an effort to score a pat.
Which brings me to the collie dog situation. I guess being a farming community it makes sense that the dog of choice would be a collie dog, ostensibly with the purpose of herding sheep and cows. However, most collies we have seen have been either a) having a kip or b) in hot pursuit of our car (literally snapping at the bumper as we make our escape). When there has been herding to be done, it has been overseen by the farmer and not the dog (but it appears that the cows have the routine down pat). So I guess the dog element might just be for companionship…Or maybe keeping up with appearances (every farmer has a dog, right?).
We made a friend.
We also stayed in the town of Kilkelly overnight, which although not much to look at, was a pleasant enough experience. Pretty sure the town is more or less on the way out. Places empty or for lease everywhere. Still plenty of pubs though. Ate at the only food establishment in town: a snack cafe of sorts serving up things like chips and fried chicken. Classy. Spent the evening hanging out with the locals and chatting about their various relatives that have moved to Australia. Every Irish person we have met seems to know someone in Australia. And as Murray has said, by Australia, they mean Perth.
We stayed in Ballina. The original Ballina, I guess. I never realised so many areas in NSW are based on places that are in Ireland. How about that. Murray being more or less from the Ballina area, we definitely had to pay the area a visit. Really, why wouldn’t you, if given the opportunity? Ate Chinese food, which was surprisingly good. Somehow, eating asian cuisine in an area that isn’t multicultural is surpassingly weird. Apparently there are something like less than 2% population of asians in Ireland. Crazy.
Dublin and the surrounds:
Our last 5 days in Ireland! Disturbing to think that this signifies that 3 months of our trip has been and gone already.
We stayed in the small town of Killiney, just south of Dublin, this time in a small apartment adjoining a main residence. The house (like all the houses in the area) was named, and etched into a pillar at the entrance to the lane. “Little Harrows” was where we stayed, and it proved to be quite a comfy spot to get in a few last days of work before leaving for Croatia.
Murray enjoying the view from Killiney Hill.
The actual view. Looks like coastal NSW…
Due to time constraints, we didn’t end up spending any time in Dublin city itself. We did, however, get to see some of the surrounding countryside. Visited a few last destinations on our OPW cards and checked out the coastline. It has nothing on the west coast. Also visited one of the more popular shopping malls to try and get a few new things. I am surprised to say, Australia does shopping malls better than anyone else. Shopping malls in the US aren’t exactly fabulous, and Belgium, slightly better, but still not great. This one in Ireland? Worst I’ve seen yet. Small, and a terrible selection of shops. Needless to say, we did not get what we came for.
Mellifont Abbey. What’s left of it, anyway.
Bective Abbey. Got to climb all over this one. 🙂
Also sent a package of stuff we hadn’t used back to Australia. That was a mission in itself. Here, you must buy the packaging materials of choice and prepare your package to be sent via post at somewhere other than the post office. They don’t sell packaging materials there. So we had to hunt out a cardboard box and tape to seal it with, which was rather exotic. And then to send the gear home the postal system only accepts Irish cards.. so we had to pay cash. It wasn’t cheap. Murray thought it a waste of money, but I figure it is worth it to not have to tote around extra things
Exiting Ireland:
So, we chose to fly Ryanair. Since having booked, I have heard many not so fabulous things about the joys of flying with their service. Our experience? Actually not bad (other than the GIANT line at the airport for the Ryanair service desks). However, having to print out the boarding pass yourself is an absolute pain in the posterior (as a tourist, anyway). We went to a lot of effort to print out our passes only to find that we needed to make a change on it, and was thereby required to print the buggers off yet again. It cost <4 euro to print, all in all, but it took a lot of fluffing around to find somewhere that would print the email. I’m positive it cost plenty more than 4 euro in petrol money. But, still better than the fee they charge at the airport to print the boarding pass for you.
Our flight was relatively uneventful. Apparently, some jackass elected to have a smoke in one of the onboard lavatories. Which, I have never, ever come across before. The staff were less than impressed, and although they demanded that the person responsible own up, I am pretty sure that no one was going to volunteer as the guilty party after it was announced that doing so would result in a huge fine and immediate arrest upon arrival in Croatia. And the flight was less than 3 hours… Why would anyone be stupid enough to smoke in the plane? Surely cravings can’t be that bad.
We got off the plane to some seriously warm surroundings. After being in Ireland, enjoying(?) a maximum of maybe 20 degrees during our stay, the weather in Croatia is definitely a wee bit different. At least 10 degrees of difference. Maximum sunshine. At least it hasn’t been particularly humid. Yay, summer!